Suspension Shock Absorber


The worst thing for a suspension shock absorber is incorrect installation. Misalignment of the upper and lower bushings will cause excessive wear of the bushing and if misalignment is extreme, permanent damage or breakage of the shock may result. It is therefore very important that the centerlines of the bushings be parallel to each other when the shock is at ride height (figure A). This is determined by the position of the mounting brackets.

The mounting position of the shock should not allow the shock travel to “bottom out” or fully collapse before the suspension components bottom out (frame against axle). If the shock travel bottoms out first it will result in damage to the shock and/or the mounting brackets. Do not consider the rubber snubber on the shock shaft as a suspension snubber.

Proper ride and handling characteristics are determined by the angle that the shock is mounted at. The more vertical the shock, the stiffer the ride. The less vertical, the softer the ride, but also less support during hard bumps and cornering. The recommended angle is 30-degrees from true vertical at ride height.
Generally speaking the weight of the car will collapse the shock about 1-114” to 1-112” at ride height. Using this rule of thumb you will have a 30-degree angle at ride height if the shock is mounted at approximately 26 to 27 degrees with the shock fully extended (figure B).

A five position damping adjuster lets you dial-in the ride you desire. The valving is a six stage automatic damping function that adjusts to continue load and velocity factors to provide proper damping under all conditions. Rotating the adjuster clockwise stiffens the damping effect. One being the softest and five being stiffest, on the dial face.

Dodge Headlight Trim Ring Installation



1. Fender mount (car) with parking light Figure 1:
A. Secure wood section for Trim Ring Main Screw, (set back 1/2 inch)
B. Secure wood sections for Trim Ring Top Screws, (set back 1/8 inch)
C. Secure wood section for Parking Light, (set back 2 3/8 inches)

2. Fender mount (car.) without parking light Figure 2:
A. Secure wood section for Trim Ring Main Screw, (set back 1/2 inch)
B. Secure wood sections for Trim Ring Top Screws, (set back 1/8 inch)

3. Grill mount (pick-up truck) with parking light Figure 3:
A. Secure wood Section for Trim Ring Main Screw, (set back 1/2 inch)
B. Secure wood sections for Trim Ring Top Screws, (set back 1/8 inch)
C. Secure wood section for Parking Light, (set back 2 3/8 inches)

4. Grill mount (pick-up truck) without parking light Figure 4:
A. Secure wood section for Trim Ring Main Screw, (Set back 1/2 inch)
B. Secure wood sections for Trim Ring Top Screws. (set back 1/2 inch)

5. Parts required per headlight:
A. Trim Ring Screw 1 each 1 3/4, inch ss oval head sheet metal screw
B. Parking Light Bracket Screws -2 each 1 inch dry wall screw
C. Trim Ring Top Screws -2 each 1/2 inch flat head wood screws
D. Headlight P/N 1705 (7 inch flat quartz halogen, Socket P/N 08521
E. Parking Light Socket P/N S 55. Lamp P/N 1157NA (heavy duty)
F. Headlight Bucket, Fiberglass

Triangulated 4-Bar Installation Instructions

We have found that using different diameter wheels and tires can affect how they look in the fender openings. For example on 1955 (2nd series) to 1959 Chevy trucks, we move the front axle centerline forward 2 “ so that a 195 / 75 / 15 tire looks centered in the fender opening. We recommend that you take 10 minutes and follow this sheet rather than 3-4 hours cutting and re-positioning the suspension parts. In the end, you want your wheels and tires centered in the fender openings. Cars and trucks are dependent on their wheelbase.

1. After removing the original front or install the fenders and position the ride height and rake of the chassis. Place the wheel tire into the fender opening and block it position for the best appearance.

2. With the wheels and tires into position, extend a chalk line (e.g., twine, heavy string) from the wheel center to the wheel center and beneath the vehicles frame mils. Using a plumb bob, hang off the top of the frame rails and mark.

Engine Mounts



These mounts are first bolted to your engine with the proper hardware. I would recommend using lock nuts instead of compression style washers.

After installing the mounts you need to install the engine with the transmission into the car. Bring the engine as far back to the firewall as possible without hitting it, and leaving @ ¾ to an inch clearance. Then raise the engine as high as possible until you bottom the transmission against the car or truck floor.

Then allowing at least an inch clearance between the floor and the bell housing level the engine with the intake manifold installed on the engine this is your leveling surface. Once the engine is level front to back, then level it left to right.


Placing a small jack under the pan is an easy way to accomplish this. Make sure that you now have an equal distance on each side of the engine and the vehicle frame.

Take a piece of cardboard or heavy paper and cut it out to the same shape as the rectangular tube mounts (these have the bushings installed ) and come in the kit. Trace the tube unit and using the template make a hole in the center of the cardboard where the attaching bolt goes through the fixed portion of the engine mount.

Now you can use the template to give you the correct angle to cut the 1 X 3 tubes to the frame. This is done by bending the cardboard at the angle that the frame forms with the template attached with the ½ inch bolt going through the center at the bushing end.

Once you get this angle cut the rectangular tube at the angle taken from the template.
Install the cut rectangular tube to the fixed part of the engine mount. Make sure everything is still level and tack the mounts to the frame. If you now need to check other clearances you can leave the mounts tacked until you are ready for the final installation.